Among the sacred and historic cities of ancient India, Varanasi (also known as Kashi or Benares) holds a truly extraordinary place. Known widely as the holy land where the Buddha delivered his first sermon at Isipatana Migadaya (Sarnath), this ancient city was a flourishing spiritual and cultural epicenter long before the era of the Buddha. On my recent journey across India, I had the privilege of exploring one of Varanasi’s most captivating historic landmarks along the banks of the sacred Ganges River—the legendary Ramnagar Fort.
From Kankesanthurai to Varanasi: My Journey
My journey began at the northernmost point of Sri Lanka, at the Kankesanthurai jetty. From there, I took a passenger ferry across the Palk Strait to Nagapattinam, India. I then traveled by bus to Chennai, where I spent a few days exploring the city. Continuing my journey north, I boarded the Ganga Kaveri Express for a three-day train ride across the heart of India, finally arriving at the sacred city of Varanasi.
History of the Kashi Kingdom and Ramnagar Fort
Ramnagar Fort, the ancestral home and current residence of the Royal Family of the ancient Kashi Kingdom—one of the Solos Maha Janapadas (Sixteen Mahajanapadas) of ancient India—was constructed in 1750 AD. However, archaeological evidence suggests that human settlements existed along this stretch of the Ganges River as far back as prehistoric times. Local traditions also hold that Sage Veda Vyasa, the legendary author of the epic Mahabharata, resided on these very riverbanks.
Following the decline of Mughal influence in Northern India during the early 18th century, Maharaja Mansa Ram and his son Maharaja Balwant Singh consolidated the power of the Kashi Kingdom. To symbolize their newly reclaimed sovereignty, Maharaja Balwant Singh commissioned this fort atop a high riverbank overlooking the Ganges in 1750. Although royal titles and privy purses were abolished under the Indian Constitution in 1971, the local community in Varanasi continues to hold the royal lineage in immense respect. Today, the current titular head, Maharaja Anant Narayan Singh, still resides in a private wing of the palace complex.
Architecture, the Ganges, and Rare Artifacts
Built in a distinctive blend of Hindu, Islamic, and Rajput architectural styles, the fort was intentionally positioned on one of the highest elevated points along the Ganges to protect it from seasonal monsoon floods. The massive stone pillars inside the complex were carved from sandstone quarried in Chunar (Mirzapur) and transported along the river by boat.
The public area of the fort functions as a museum, accessible to visitors for an entry fee of ₹80 for Indian nationals and ₹200 for international tourists. Upon entering, visitors are greeted by a striking display of 19th-century British-era cannons and weaponry. The museum also houses an impressive vintage collection of royal palanquins, horse-drawn carriages, and early motorcars.
As a Sri Lankan traveler, the most fascinating discovery inside the museum was the collection of historic artifacts connected to Sri Lanka. The museum preserves several rare commemorative plaques, gifts, and official correspondence sent to the Maharaja of Kashi by the Kings of the Kandy Kingdom as well as British Governors of Ceylon.
Within the fort complex lie two major shrines: a temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman and another dedicated to Sage Veda Vyasa.
'Lanka Nagara' and the UNESCO-Recognized Ramlila
Another fascinating feature of this region is the township located across the river from Ramnagar, historically known as 'Lanka' (or Lanka Nagara). Initiated in 1830 by Maharaja Udit Narayan Singh, the local Ramlila (a traditional theatrical reenactment of the Ramayana) was declared a Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2008.
Performed over an entire month between September and November, the production utilizes the natural geography of the city as its stage: the Ganges River symbolizes the Indian Ocean, while the area across the bridge represents Sri Lanka. The performance reaches its grand climax with the Ravan Dahan, where massive effigies of Ravana are set ablaze alongside symbolic bonfires across the town to represent the burning of Lanka by Hanuman.
Looking Ahead...
After witnessing the evening Ganga Aarti across the iconic ghats of Varanasi—including Dashashwamedh, Assi, and Manikarnika—my next stops include Sarnath (Isipatana Migadaya) and Banaras Hindu University (BHU), one of the largest residential universities in South Asia with over 30,000 students.
From Varanasi, my journey continues westward to Jaipur, the "Pink City" of Rajasthan!
Key Terminology & Historical Notes:
Solos Maha Janapadas: The 16 Great Kingdoms of ancient India during the 6th–4th centuries BCE.
Ganga Kaveri Express: A prominent long-distance express train connecting Southern India (Chennai) with Northern India (Varanasi).
Chunar Sandstone: Red/buffy sandstone quarried from Chunar, historically used in Ashokan pillars and North Indian fort architecture.
Ravan Dahan: The ritual burning of Ravana's effigy, symbolizing the victory of good over evil during Dussehra/Ramlila celebrations.
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